Date: May 22, 1847
On the North Platte River, Nebraska:
The morning were getting warmer. At 5 a.m. the temperature was
forty-eight degrees. There were a few thin clouds in the sky
and a light breeze. Some of the men partially buried the mammoth
bone and put an inscription about it, written on a board for
the next company. It read, "Mammoth Bone Encampment 21 & 22 May
1847 Pioneers" and on the back, "All well, Sioux Indians seen
here."
A large dog came near the camp and followed the pioneers during
their travels. He appeared to be wild and appeared to be part
wolf. They left meat out for him.
After five and a half miles they crossed a stream about twenty
feet wide which they named Crab Creek, and soon they halted for
the noon rest. Porter Rockwell came into camp and reported that
he had seen Chimney Rock in the distance from a high bluff. Orson
Pratt wrote: "With our glasses, Chimney Rock can now be seen
at a distance of 42 miles up the river. At this distance it appears
like a short tower placed upon an elevated mound or hill."
William Clayton recorded: "In order to satisfy myself, although
my feet were blistered and very sore, I determined to take my
telescope and go on the bluff to ascertain for myself whether
the noted rock could be seen or not. At half past twelve I started
out alone. . . . I found the ascent very steep and lengthy in
comparison to its appearance from camp. When I arrived on the
top I found a nice slightly arched surface of about a quarter
of an acre in extent, but barren and very little grass on it.
Huge comparatively smooth rocks peeped through the surface on
one of which I wrote with red chalk: 'Wm. Clayton, May 22, 1847.'
On the highest point I sat down and took a view of the surrounding
country which is magnificent indeed. On the south at the distance
of two miles from the river, there is a range of cedar trees
on the bluffs which very much resemble some of the parks and
seats of gentry in England. East I could see where we camped
last night, the high grass still burning. . . . West . . . I
should judge of about twenty miles, I could see Chimney Rock
very plainly with the naked eye, which from here very much resembles
the large factory chimneys in England, although I could not see
the form of its base. The rock lay about due west from here.
After gratifying my curiosity, and seeing the men collecting
their teams for a march, I descended on the west side of the
bluff."
During the afternoon, their road took them up over some bluffs
and back down to the prairie bottoms. They crossed over several
dry stream bead. Many petrified bones were noticed as they traveled.
After traveling a total of fifteen and a half miles, the next
camp was established about 150 yards from the river. Orson Pratt
described: The wind and rains have worked the bluffs at this
place into many curious forms, some of which resemble cones or
pyramids, others exhibiting perpendicular and shelving sides.
. . . I ascended several of these curiously shaped bluffs. Now
and then a straggling cedar crowned their tops, standing solitary
and alone. . . . On the top of one of these bluffs, in the branches
of a small cedar, a bald eagle's nest was discovered, having
one lyoung in it." George R. Grant and Orson K. Whitney carried
it back to camp and planned to raise it. William Clayton described: "Although
it is very young and its feathers have scarcely commenced growing,
it measures from the tips of its wings when stretched, forty-six
inches. Its head is nearly the size of my fist and looks very
ferocious." The nest was sad to be three feet in diameter. The
mouth of a cavern was also discovered in one of the bluffs. The
men did not have torches so they only went into it for a few
feet.
Willard Richards named the bluffs "Ancient Ruins Bluffs" because
they appeared to be the ruins of an ancient city. Heber C. Kimball
recorded: "The whole scenery around is one of romantic beauty
which cannot be fully described with pen or tongue."
Wilford Woodruff wrote: "A spring of Cold water was found in
the top of one of these peaks apparently in a small basin of
stone. There are considerable number of rattle snakes come out
of these bluffs. I saw near a dozen to day." Several of the men
killed some rattlesnakes and started to collect rattles.
A thunder storm passed by. Lorenzo Young wrote "It thundered
and lightninged for 2 hours and then blew hard, and it looked
dismall but to our surprise and joy the clouds seemed to part
and the rain and wind went on both side of us and did not disturb
us."
William Clayton described some evening activities in the camp
of the pioneers. "The evening was spent very joyfully by most
of the brethren . . . A number danced till the bugle sounded
for bed time at nine o'clock. A mock trial was also prosecuted
in the case of the camp vs. James Davenport for blockading the
highway and turning ladies out of their course. Jackson Redding
acted as the presiding judge. Elder [Edson] Whipple attorney
for defendant and Luke Johnson attorney for the people. We have
many such trials in the camp which are amusing enough and tend
among other things to pass away the time cheerfully during leisure
moments. It was remarked this evening that we have one man in
camp who is entitled to the credit of being more even tempered
than any of the others, and that is Father [Solomon] Chamberlain.
He is invariably cross and quarrelsome, but the brethren all
take it as a joke and he makes considerable amusement for the
camp."
Summer Quarters, Nebraska:
John D. Lee and about twenty others worked hard during the morning
planting corn, beans, peas, melons, and squash. In the afternoon,
Brother Lee and others traveled to Winter Quarters. He spent the
night at John Berry's home.
Kearny Mormon Battalion detachment, California:
The detachment arrived at the Mission of San Miguel.
Company B, Mormon Battalion, at San Diego, California:
A ship was seen coming into the harbor. Robert S. Bliss wrote: "The
winds are almost constantly from the North West which makes it
cool & healthy, much cooler here than in Illinois at this time
of Year."
Sources:
Watson, ed., The Orson Pratt Journals, 402-04
Howard Egan's Diary, Pioneering the West, 46-7
Appleton Milo Harmon Goes West, 21
Diary of Lorenzo Dow Young, Utah Historical Quarterly, 14:159
Wilford Woodruff's Journal, 3:180-81
Bagley, ed., The Pioneer Camp of the Saints, 162-63
William Clayton's Journal, 169-76
Kelly, ed., Journals of John D. Lee, 1846-1847 and 1859, 170
The Journal of Nathaniel V. Jones, Utah Historical Quarterly, 4:17
The Journal of Robert S. Bliss, Utah Historical Quarterly, 4:93
Source: 150 Years Ago Today
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